Classic Cream Tea Scones

Instructions

1. 1

   Heat the oven

   Set a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat to 425°F (220°C). Line a heavy baking sheet with parchment. A properly hot oven is what forces the water in the butter to flash into steam and shove the scones upward, so give it a full 20 minutes to come up to temperature.

2. 2

   Whisk the dry ingredients

   In a large bowl, whisk the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together for a good 15 seconds. Baking powder clumps and settles in the tin, and a pocket of it in one scone means a bitter bite and a flat neighbor.

3. 3

   Cut in the butter

   Scatter the cold butter cubes over the flour and toss to coat. Rub them between your fingertips, lifting your hands above the bowl so the mixture falls back in and stays cool. Stop when the largest pieces are the size of small peas and the rest looks like coarse meal. You want visible flecks of butter, not a uniform sandy texture, since those flecks are your flaky layers. If your kitchen is warm, use a pastry cutter or two knives instead of your hands.

4. 4

   Add the liquid

   Stir the currants through the flour, if using. Beat the egg into the cold milk, pour it over the dry mixture all at once, and stir with a table knife in a cutting motion just until the flour disappears. The dough will look rough and a little dry in spots. Resist adding more milk unless there is genuinely loose flour in the bottom of the bowl, in which case add it a teaspoon at a time.

5. 5

   Pat out the dough

   Tip the dough onto a lightly floured counter and fold it over on itself three or four times, pressing gently. That is the whole kneading process. Pat it out by hand to a slab about 1 1/4 inches thick. Skip the rolling pin here, as it compresses the air pockets you just built and gives you squat scones.

6. 6

   Cut without twisting

   Dip a 2 1/2-inch round cutter in flour and press it straight down to the counter, then lift it straight up. Do not twist. Twisting smears the cut edge closed and the scone will rise lopsided or barely at all. Press the scraps together gently, pat out, and cut again. You should get 8. Arrange them about an inch apart on the sheet.

7. 7

   Chill, then glaze

   Slide the tray into the fridge or freezer for 15 to 20 minutes until the dough is firm and cold to the touch. Meanwhile beat the remaining egg with the tablespoon of milk. Brush the tops only, keeping the glaze off the cut sides, since egg running down the sides glues the layers together and stunts the rise.

8. 8

   Bake

   Bake for 14 to 16 minutes, until the tops are deep golden and the sides look dry and set rather than pale and damp. A scone lifted from the sheet should feel light for its size and sound hollow when tapped underneath. If you want to be certain, the center reads about 208°F (98°C).

9. 9

   Cool briefly and serve

   Move them to a rack for 5 minutes. Split them by pushing your thumbs into the seam around the middle and pulling apart rather than cutting with a knife, which gives you a softer, craggier surface for jam and cream. They are at their absolute best within the hour.

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Baker's Tips

• 1.

  Freeze your butter for 10 minutes and grate it on the large holes of a box grater if you find rubbing in fiddly. It distributes evenly and stays cold.

• 2.

  Spoon flour into the measuring cup and level it off. Scooping straight from the bag packs in up to 20 percent extra and gives you dry, heavy scones.

• 3.

  Crowding the scones about an inch apart is deliberate. They support each other as they climb and rise taller than scones spaced widely apart.

• 4.

  Buttermilk works in place of the milk for a slight tang and softer crumb. Swap in an equal weight and reduce the baking powder to 2 teaspoons, adding 1/2 teaspoon baking soda.

• 5.

  For savory scones, drop the sugar to 1 tablespoon and fold in 3/4 cup grated sharp cheddar with a good grind of black pepper.

• 6.

  Unbaked cut scones freeze beautifully. Freeze solid on a tray, bag them, and bake straight from frozen with 3 to 4 minutes added.

Equipment

• Large mixing bowl
• Pastry cutter or box grater
• 2 1/2-inch round cutter
• Heavy rimmed baking sheet
• Parchment paper
• Pastry brush
• Wire cooling rack

Storage