Palmiers, Gluten Free

Instructions

1. 1

   Mix the dough

   Whisk the gluten-free flour blend, xanthan gum (if your blend does not already contain a binder), 1 tablespoon sugar, and 3/4 teaspoon salt in a wide bowl. Add the cold butter cubes, toss to coat, and press each one flat between your fingers into ragged, stamp-sized flakes. Drizzle in the ice water and toss with a fork until the dough clumps, then squeeze it into a shaggy block. Gluten-free blends drink more water than wheat flour, so add up to another tablespoon if any dry flour remains in the bowl.

2. 2

   Rest the dough to hydrate

   Wrap the block and refrigerate for 30 minutes before you roll anything. The starches and gums need this time to absorb the water; skip it and the dough will crack and crumble at every fold. It should come out of the fridge feeling supple rather than sandy.

3. 3

   Laminate with letter folds

   On a surface dusted with the gluten-free blend, pat the dough into a rough 6 by 9 inch rectangle, rolling between two sheets of parchment if it sticks. Fold in thirds like a business letter, turn a quarter turn, and roll back out to about 6 by 12 inches. Repeat three more times, for four folds total. Expect ragged edges and the occasional split; simply press any cracks closed with your fingers and keep going. Chill 20 minutes if the butter begins to smear.

4. 4

   Chill

   Wrap the dough tightly and refrigerate at least 1 hour, or up to 2 days. Cold dough is non-negotiable: solid butter turns to steam in the oven and pushes the layers apart.

5. 5

   Roll the dough in sugar

   Stir the 1 cup sugar with the 1/4 teaspoon salt and the cinnamon, if using. Scatter about half over a clean work surface, set the chilled dough on top, cover with most of the remaining sugar, and roll to a 12 by 16 inch rectangle with a short side facing you. Press the sugar into both faces with the pin, and work outward from the center in short strokes so the dough stretches evenly instead of tearing.

6. 6

   Fold the palmier shape

   Mark the center of the rectangle with the back of a knife. Fold the top and bottom edges in to meet at the center, sprinkle with any sugar left on the counter, then fold each side in to the center line again. Close the two halves together like a book and press firmly along the seam. Without gluten there is less to hold the spiral together, so take an extra moment to compress each fold against the one below it.

7. 7

   Chill the log until firm

   Wrap the log and freeze for 30 minutes, or refrigerate at least 1 hour. A firm log slices cleanly instead of squashing. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400F and line two sheet pans with parchment.

8. 8

   Slice and space

   With a sharp thin knife, cut the log into slices a scant 1/2 inch thick, pressing straight down rather than sawing. Lay them cut side up on the lined pans with 2 1/2 inches between them and pinch the base of each one closed. Slide any slices that loosen back into shape with your fingers before baking.

9. 9

   Bake and flip

   Bake for 14 to 16 minutes, until the undersides are a deep glossy amber, then flip each palmier and bake 6 to 8 minutes more. Gluten-free pastry needs to go a shade darker than you might expect, because the color comes from caramelized sugar rather than browned gluten, and pulling them pale leaves the centers doughy.

10. 10

    Cool on a rack

    Slide the parchment onto a wire rack and cool completely. These crisp as the sugar sets and stay crisp for a shorter window than the wheat version, so serve them the day they are baked if you can.

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Baker's Tips

• 1.

  Store-bought all-butter puff pastry works in place of the homemade dough. Thaw one 14-ounce sheet, roll it out on sugar, and pick the recipe up at step 4.

• 2.

  Granulated sugar is the right choice for the coating because it melts into caramel. Powdered sugar dissolves into the dough and never crisps, and coarse sugars like demerara give a crunchier, less glassy finish if that is what you are after.

• 3.

  The pinch of salt in the sugar is not optional in spirit, even if it is small. Straight sugar caramel tastes flat, and that quarter teaspoon is what makes these taste like a pastry rather than candy.

• 4.

  Parchment, not a greased pan or a silicone mat. Melted sugar runs off the palmiers as they bake and will weld them to bare metal.

• 5.

  The log freezes beautifully for up to 2 months. Slice from frozen, add 2 to 3 minutes to the bake, and you have fresh palmiers whenever you want them.

• 6.

  If your palmiers unfurl in the oven, the log was too warm when you sliced it or the folds were too loose. Press the seams more firmly and chill longer next time.