Classic Caramel Flan

Instructions

1. 1

   Heat the oven and boil water

   Set a rack in the middle of the oven and heat it to 350°F (175°C). Put a kettle or saucepan of water on to boil — you want it hot and ready when the flan goes in, so the custard starts cooking gently rather than sitting in a cold bath. Have a 9-inch round cake pan (at least 2 inches deep) and a roasting pan large enough to hold it standing by.

2. 2

   Cook the caramel

   Combine the sugar, water, and lemon juice in a small heavy saucepan over medium heat. Swirl the pan gently to dissolve the sugar but do not stir once it starts bubbling — a spoon dragged through hot syrup invites crystals. Let it boil, swirling every so often, until it turns the color of an old penny, roughly 8 to 12 minutes. The color deepens fast at the end, so pull it the moment it looks right; a caramel that goes past dark mahogany will taste scorched.

3. 3

   Coat the pan

   Immediately pour the caramel into the cake pan and tilt it in a slow circle so the caramel covers the bottom in an even sheet. Work quickly — it stiffens within a minute. The pan will be very hot, so hold it with a dry towel. Set it aside; the caramel will harden into a glassy disc, which is exactly what you want.

4. 4

   Blend the custard

   In a blender, combine the sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk, heavy cream, whole eggs, yolks, vanilla, and salt. Blend on the lowest speed for about 20 seconds, just until uniform. Resist the urge to run it longer — every extra second beats in air, and air becomes the little tunnels and holes that keep flan from being silky. No blender? Whisk the eggs and yolks smooth in a large bowl first, then whisk in the liquids slowly and steadily rather than vigorously.

5. 5

   Strain and fill

   Pour the custard through a fine-mesh sieve directly into the caramel-lined pan. This catches any stringy bits of egg and most of the surface foam. If foam still sits on top, skim it with a spoon or lay a strip of paper towel flat on the surface for a second and lift it away. Cover the pan tightly with foil.

6. 6

   Set up the water bath

   Place the covered pan inside the roasting pan, then set the whole thing on the oven rack before adding water — carrying a sloshing bath across the kitchen is how flan gets watery. Pour the hot water into the roasting pan until it comes about halfway up the sides of the cake pan, keeping it out of the custard.

7. 7

   Bake until barely set

   Bake for 55 to 65 minutes. Start checking at 50. Nudge the pan: the outer two-thirds should be set while a circle in the center about the size of a quarter still wobbles as one soft unit, not in ripples. An instant-read thermometer in the center should read 175 to 180°F. Carryover heat finishes the job, so pulling it slightly early is always the safer mistake.

8. 8

   Cool, then chill overnight

   Lift the cake pan out of the water bath and cool it on a wire rack to room temperature, about an hour. Then cover and refrigerate at least 6 hours, ideally overnight. This is not optional — chilling firms the custard so it slices cleanly, and it gives the hardened caramel time to dissolve into the sauce that pools over the top when you flip it.

9. 9

   Unmold and serve

   Run a thin knife or small offset spatula around the edge, pressing against the pan so you don't cut into the custard. Set a rimmed serving plate upside down over the pan, grip both together, and invert in one confident motion. Lift the pan away and let the caramel run down the sides. If it clings, set the pan base in an inch of hot water for 30 seconds and try again. Slice with a knife wiped clean between cuts and spoon extra caramel over each serving.

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Baker's Tips

• 1.

  Use a light-colored saucepan for the caramel. In a dark pan you cannot judge the color, and caramel goes from perfect to burnt in about 15 seconds.

• 2.

  If the caramel seizes or crystallizes, add a tablespoon of water and keep heating gently — it usually melts smooth again.

• 3.

  Room-temperature eggs blend in with less whisking, which means fewer bubbles in the finished custard.

• 4.

  Big holes or a spongy texture mean the oven ran too hot or the bath was too shallow. Keep the water at least halfway up the pan and check your oven with a thermometer.

• 5.

  For individual servings, divide among eight 6-ounce ramekins and start checking at 25 minutes.

• 6.

  Flan actually improves on day two, so it's an ideal dessert to make the day before guests arrive.

Equipment

• 9-inch round cake pan, at least 2 inches deep
• Roasting pan large enough to hold the cake pan
• Small heavy-bottomed saucepan
• Blender or large whisk and bowl
• Fine-mesh sieve
• Aluminum foil
• Instant-read thermometer
• Rimmed serving plate

Storage