Classic Chewy Bagels

Instructions

1. 1

   Dissolve the malt

   Stir the barley malt syrup into the warm water until it dissolves and the water turns the color of weak tea. Malt syrup is stubborn and clings to the spoon, so warm the spoon under hot tap water first and it will slide right off. Whisk in the yeast and let it sit for 5 minutes.

2. 2

   Mix the dough

   Add the bread flour and salt, then mix on low with a dough hook until no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes. This dough is deliberately stiff — far drier than a sandwich loaf — so it will look rough and reluctant at first. Resist adding water. If your mixer is straining badly, let the dough rest 10 minutes and it will relax.

3. 3

   Knead until tight

   Knead on low for 8 to 10 minutes in the mixer, or 12 minutes by hand on an unfloured counter. You're looking for a smooth, dense ball that feels like a firm pillow and springs back slowly when poked. It will never feel soft or silky like bread dough, and that's exactly right — that tight gluten structure is what gives a bagel its chew.

4. 4

   Bulk rise

   Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover, and let it rise at room temperature for 1 to 1 1/2 hours. A stiff dough rises slowly, so don't expect it to double — about 50 percent larger is the target.

5. 5

   Divide and shape

   Turn the dough out and divide it into 8 pieces, about 110g each if you're weighing. Roll each into a tight ball, then push your thumb through the center and stretch the hole to about 2 inches across, rotating the ring with both hands to even out the thickness. Make the hole bigger than looks correct — it will shrink by half during proofing and baking.

6. 6

   Cold overnight rest

   Dust a parchment-lined sheet pan with semolina, arrange the bagels with space between them, cover loosely, and refrigerate 12 to 18 hours. This slow, cold fermentation is where the flavor comes from, and it also firms the dough so the bagels hold their shape in the boiling water.

7. 7

   Float test

   Take the bagels straight from the fridge and drop one into a bowl of cool water. It should bob to the surface within 10 seconds. If it sinks, let the whole tray sit at room temperature for 20 to 30 minutes and test again. Return the floater to the tray and pat it dry.

8. 8

   Heat the oven and the bath

   Preheat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the upper third. In a wide pot, bring the water to a boil, then stir in the malt syrup and baking soda — expect a brief fizz. Reduce to a steady, rolling simmer.

9. 9

   Boil

   Lower 2 or 3 bagels into the water, never crowding them. Boil 1 minute, flip with a slotted spoon or spider, and boil 1 minute more. A longer boil means a thicker, chewier crust and a slightly duller finish; 30 seconds a side gives a thinner, glossier one. Lift them out, let them drain a moment, and return them to the semolina-dusted pan.

10. 10

    Wash and top

    Beat the egg with the tablespoon of water and brush each bagel while still damp and warm. Scatter on everything seasoning or seeds right away — the wash sets fast, and toppings added late will fall off in the oven.

11. 11

    Bake

    Bake 20 to 24 minutes, rotating the pan at the halfway mark, until the tops are a deep burnished brown. Pale bagels are underbaked bagels; push the color further than feels comfortable. The internal temperature should read 200 to 205°F.

12. 12

    Cool before cutting

    Move the bagels to a wire rack and let them cool at least 20 minutes. The crumb is still setting, and slicing into a hot bagel gives you a gummy interior.

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Baker's Tips

• 1.

  Bread flour is doing real work here. Its higher protein content builds the dense, elastic crumb that defines a bagel, and all-purpose will give you something closer to a soft roll.

• 2.

  Barley malt syrup delivers the distinctive malty sweetness and the deep brown crust. Honey or molasses will substitute at the same volume, but the flavor shifts noticeably toward floral or bitter.

• 3.

  The baking soda in the bath raises the pH of the water, which accelerates browning and produces that classic shine. Skip it and your bagels will bake up paler.

• 4.

  For a rounder, more uniform shape, try the rope method: roll each piece into an 8-inch rope, wrap it around your palm so the ends overlap by an inch, then roll the seam against the counter to seal.

• 5.

  Boil in small batches. Crowding the pot drops the water temperature and gives you flat, tough bagels.

• 6.

  Dough scraps and odd shapes are normal on your first batch. Shape issues disappear once you get a feel for how much the hole closes up.

Equipment

• Stand mixer with dough hook (or a sturdy bowl and strong hands)
• Kitchen scale
• Large wide pot or Dutch oven
• Slotted spoon or spider skimmer
• Rimmed baking sheet
• Parchment paper
• Wire cooling rack
• Instant-read thermometer

Storage